Gold and enamel belt buckle. Early 19th century.
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Gold and enamel belt buckle.
Early 19th century.
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Rectangular belt buckle in enameled gold. It is embellished with neogothic motifs of arcade windows, clovers, symmetrical crosses, asymmetrical designs and stylized flowers. The enamel work is excellently executed, playing on the opacity of the white and black enamel background as well as the multicolored translucent enamel that is a reminder of cathedral stained glass. On the back is a setting that serves to attach a ribbon that would function as a belt. A return to the styles of the Middle Ages came with the development of Romanticism. This neogothic style impacted all of the arts, as can be seen in literature with The Hunchback of Notre Dame by Victor Hugo and La Tour de Nestle by Alexandre Dumas. In France around 1820, the Duchess of Berry was the instigator of the Cathedral Style. In jewelry making, renowned goldsmiths were enchanted by the style, Froment-Meurice and Morel being among the most famous. As such, chatelaines made their reappearance, as well as bracelets with scenes from feudal life or departures for the crusades. This belt buckle, which was worn just under the bust line, illustrates this return to medieval tastes as it evokes gothic cathedral stained glass windows with its intricately worked enamel. Weight: 0.7 oz (20 g) Height: 3.5 in (9 cm) / Width: 1 in (2.7 cm) Work from the beginning of the 19th century. Circa 1820-1830. Price: 1500€ REF: 3274 Bibliography: Bijoux romantiques 1820-1850, la parure à l'époque de Georges Sand. Musée de la vie romantique, Paris, 2000.

Gold and enamel belt buckle. Early 19th century.